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A
tribute for
three unique people of Istanbul
by
Cüneyt AYRAL
(Nice, France - December 1, 2003) Istanbul lost
three beautiful and unique people one after another.
I
wanted to write after each of these three people, but
I changed my mind since I couldn't find any words to say
after deaths.
Besides
these people's each being a unique "Istanbul figure,"
their other common characteristic is that they were closely
related to the enjoyment of eating-drinking.
The
Madame Anahit of Beyoglu Cicek Pasaji used to cheer up
tables which were intoxicated by food and alcohol with
her HOHNER make accordion and brought even more delight
to their delight.
She
was photographed many times in the night-life of Cicek
Pasaji; she received tips from countless people and she
heard many beautiful words.
Once,
I learned from Madame Anahit, whom I praised in one of
my poems, that HOHNER was a very famous accordion brand.
Celik
Gülersoy was one of Istanbul's real gentlemen.
1)
Celik Gulersoy
2 ) Tugrul Savkay, with famous Turkish Pop Singer Ajda
Pekkan
Just what he had done for the Mansions of Yildiz Park
is more than enough for Istanbul. He, on the other hand,
had worked without rest for this city and he had been
pushed around during the time when Tayyip Erdogan, who
is now the Prime Minister, was the Mayor of Istanbul.
I
hope that to erect a statue of Celik Gulersoy, who had
not spared his support and help in the family of writers
of the Journal of Kostantiniyye News in Istanbul,
will be granted to Tayyip Erdogan so that he would cover
the shames he had done and would find a chance to apologize.
Celik
Gulersoy's books which each one of them is his statue
and his being one of the first reinterpreters of the cafe
culture which is getting more and more spread everyday
in Istanbul are among the reasons for him to be remembered
constantly.
Turing
Automobile Association of Turkey, and his many other services
are omitted from this article.
The
third loss fell inside of me in flames through an internet
news article.
The
untimely loss of my dear brother Tugrul Savkay who had
left his mark on the eating-drinking culture of Istanbul
is something like the loss of the salt shaker in the contemporary
culture of Turkish kitchen.
How
beautiful were our chats and meals during the years we
founded The Kitchen Friends Association.
Should
I tell you about Chef Mossiman's dinner party at the old
Movenpick Hotel, or about the day Tugrul had encouraged
me by saying: "you talked too much, set the table
once"?
After
his saying so, I had organized the "Czar's table
after the hunting party"
at the old Ambassador (Bebek) Restaurant and I had taken
on the table waiting myself. I had personally served to
Tugrul Savkay. Tugrul used to love eating as much as he
knew how to cook.
Later,
I had invited Ajda Pekkan to a feast of "tasting"
of our Wine Friends Association where we were together
with him. There, Savkay had told and taught Pekkan the
finer points of wine tasting. I had kept the photograph
published in a newspaper then; I publish it here even
though its quality is mediocre; a memory is a memory after
all.
Lacivert,
Apetito, Zihni Bar...
I
would like to remember these three beautiful people of
Istanbul by telling my recent experiences of eating-drinking
in Istanbul.
Cuneyt
Ayral with chef Huseyin Ceylan and Madam Bihter
Chef
Huseyin Ceylan, the young chef in his thirties of the
Lacivert Restaurant, with its unbelievable view at the
seashore of Anatolian Bank of the Bosphorus, takes the
business of cooking quite seriously and he does it very
well.
Chef
Huseyin Ceylan, who is aware of that cooking is not just
about maintaining the right taste, is quite successful
at the presentation of the plate too.
Of
course the incompetent service of the Lacivert Restaurant
does not convey the thrill the chef deserves, but Chef
Huseyin is the right address to have "a good dinner"
in Istanbul.
Furthermore,
while you are eating your meal, having the chef come to
your table in his very stylish chef attire and ask your
opinions about the meal shows that the western chefs'
tradition has arrived in Istanbul too. It feels good to
see that another one of dear Tugrul Savkay's desires has
come alive.
The
growing "grab-eat-run" eating trend which has
taken over Istanbul, mostly from the enormous shopping
centers, makes our people who love to eat "uncomfortable."
For this reason, too, people show an increasing interest
in places which offer more sensible and different tastes
in these enormous areas.
Among
these are the APETITO's which are accomplished by the
individual efforts of a young couple.
At
the Apetito's, which have two locations at Acibadem Tepe
Nautilus Mall and Levent Metro City, you can both grab-eat-run
and at the same time take along a taste with you. The
successful menus of Banu-Selim Germaner couple create
a sensible choice for lunch or meals before or after a
movie. The presentation, the service and the appearance
of the meals are also as they should be.
One
of the "special"sites of Istanbul is, without
doubt, ZIHNI BAR.
Zihni
had opened its gigantic location in Ortakoy, after serving
at Tesvikiye Bronz Street for years with elegance.
While
competing against the entertainment life of Ortakoy on
one hand, on the other hand Zihni calls out to the palates
with its changing menu nowadays. Its "Orient Express"
menu really resembles a feast.
When
I stopped by there while I was in Istanbul, I asked why
their location at the Bronz Street was not open anymore.
They told me that the residents of the apartment building
were not letting them! Yet, there is now a kebab house
next to the location.
It
is necessary for the fans of Istanbul to look after the
places that have contributed to the city's identity. What
happened to the Yildiz Mansions once they were taken from
Celik Gulersoy's management?
I
think the young mayor of Sisli, who says that he loves
Istanbul at every opportunity, should look after this
business too. If it's necessary, he should be the one
to persuade the residents of the Bronz Apartment Building.
I
am not interested in how much money will Zihni make from
the Zihni Bar at Bronz Street. I wouldn't even know whether
he makes profit or not. Well, I don't think he needs this
money that much either; the Ortakoy location is good enough.
But,
Zihni Bar, just like the Park Samdan, and five o'clock
teas at the Hilton Hotel, and the restaurant of the Divan
Hotel and many other examples from Istanbul, is one of
the sites that should be kept alive.
When
you're reading this piece, or right after you've read
it, listen to a sweet Istanbul song, then will these three
beautiful people of Istanbul rest in peace where they
lie...
_ . _
Translated by Figen Bingül from Turkish for the Light
Millennium.
E-mail: ayral@ayral.com
Web site: http://www.ayral.com
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