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NURI’s DONKEY:

An American Bride in a Turkish Village


nurisdonkey_emily_in_village


"When Allah wants a pauper to be happy

First he makes him lose his donkey

Then he lets him find it"

by Emily BUNKER

A lost donkey and a collection of stories don’t appear to have much in common.But the joy of finding each of them lies in the renewed appreciation for something vital that perhaps was taken for granted.  For his livelihood’s sake, a pauper mustn’t lose his donkey; for humanity’s sake, we mustn’t lose our desire to listen to – and recognize ourselves in – the voices of others.  Nuri’s Donkey takes readers to a remote village in Turkey, where they will discover funny, bittersweet, and stranger-than-fiction tales about people who are not so different after all.

In 1982 I went to this village with my then-husband, Fikri, to meet my in-laws.I was the first American, and the first Turkish-speaking foreigner, the villagers had ever seen.  I had an academic interest in being there as well: as a recent Stanford University graduate in anthropology, I looked forward to putting my lessons to use.  My beginning Turkish would have to suffice because they spoke no English. 

The village leapt into view as we rounded the last bend in the narrow mountain road. Adobe houses and barns, still without electricity or plumbing, overlooked a scenic marshland. Fruit and nut trees dotted the landscape. Fountains of pure, delicious spring water flowed to the fields and gardens by way of irrigation channels.

Each day the villagers lined up anew to stare and ask me questions. My mother- and sisters-in-law, feeling obliged to protect me, would try to shoo them all away. I understood their curiosity, but this made me very nervous!

Four-year-old Yücel was the only child brave enough to approach me; chattering nonstop, he followed me everywhere and cried whenever his mother took him home. Again and again Yücel would declare, Your eyes are green, your hair is white.”  One day he asked Fikri if he could keep me in exchange for a toy truck.

I was sometimes caught off-guard by the village’s unwritten rules.  No one had told me, for instance, that a bride is supposed to remain silent with her father-in-law until he formally gives her permission to speak to him.  Nuri, my father-in-law, was asking me questions and making me laugh from the moment we met, so I couldn’t have followed this rule even if I’d known it!  He had dispensed with that piece of etiquette because he wanted to get to know me and listen to my fractured Turkish. Besides, he was a practical and somewhat rebellious man who apparently thought the custom was a waste of time.

Some conventions, on the other hand, could not be avoided. Dinnertime was often challenging because of the variety of ways to say no, thank you.

Politeness requires you never to accept something the first time it is offered, so intonation (are you implying yes, please, or do you actually mean what you say?) is critical. I eventually learned how to convey such subtleties. I think I achieved honorary villager status one evening when I offered some leftover food to Yusuf, one of my brothers-in-law. He instinctively said, “No, thanks.” “Please have a little more,”I replied. Catching on, Yusuf helped me stretch the game to the breaking point. He demurred – I insisted – back and forth a couple more rounds – until finally I won!

Everyone was intrigued by my journal.  “Be sure to include how hard I’m working,” my sister-in-law Nazmiye said with a wink as she swept the floor nearby.  My introduction to the village ended with a suitcase full of exquisite handmade gifts, a bag of apples and walnuts, and a written account of my adventure: the starting point for Nuri’s Donkey.  As we drove back over the narrow mountain road, I could see my new family watching us disappear into the morning fog.




About Emily Bunker:

Emily Bunker grew up dancing and riding horses in the San Francisco Bay Area.  After high school she joined a Turkish and Balkan folkdance performing group; three years later she traveled to Turkey to study its folklore, focusing primarily on the dances of the Black Sea region.  Upon her return she met her future Turkish husband, who comes from the village described in her book Nuri’s Donkey.      Emily attended Stanford University, graduating with a degree in anthropology.  She has worked as a teaching assistant for developmentally disabled children, a dance teacher and choreographer, and an SAT prep tutor.  She is now a writer/editor, and is the owner of Brewster Editing Services.  Besides Nuri’s Donkey, she is the author of Secret Rules of the SAT Game and Jet Black Cat. 

A single mother of two beautiful half-Turkish daughters, Emily lives in Brewster, Massachusetts.  www.emilybunker.com  

- NURİ’NİN EŞEĞİ (in Turkish) on ISIKBINYILI.ORG
http://www.isikbinyili.org/docView.php?d=article&id=152



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